Ometepe Island (a smart guide)

Ometepe Island is probably my favorite travel destination in Nicaragua for its chill vibe and beautiful landscape. Formed by two volcanoes, this 176 sq km island is located about 17 km from mainland Nicaragua, surrounded by Lake Nicaragua.

Getting there is a short ferry ride from the port of San Jorge, near Rivas, with the ferry taking about 45 minutes to an hour. Purchasing a ticket for the ferry is pretty easy to do at the port. At the first ticket booth you pay a entry fee/tax, then at another ticket booth you pay for the actually ferry ticket. In total it costs between $3-4.

Arriving to the port from around Nicaragua isn’t complicated either. Depending on your budget you could take a group shuttle, public bus, or taxi. To give some context, I took a shuttle from Granada provided by Bigfoot Hostel and the price was about $20 . A public bus would probably cost you $1-2 if you’d like a budget alternative. Obviously a taxi will be the most expensive option.

View of Volcanos Concepción and Maderas

TIP #1

Don’t try to buy tickets too close to the ferry departure time. It might be at full capacity by then, resulting in you waiting another hour for the next ferry. I’d say give yourself a 20-30 minute window to be safe.

The Ferry runs approximately once per hour

TIP #2

There’s an authentic Italian restaurant at the port called El Navegante. The owner is from Milan, Italy and the pasta is good.

Recommendation: Order the Fusilli all’arrabbiata…..and if you want to be extra like I am, ask to replace the fusilli (type of pasta) with gnocchi for a heavier pasta. I grew up eating a lot of Italian food so you’re safe with my advice.

Where to Stay and When to Arrive (Quickly)

There is plenty of accommodation to choose from for your stay, including budget-friendly hostels with dorms and social vibes, to mid-range eco-lodges and cabins with nature settings, plus higher-end, unique options. I personally took a liking to the area around Merida. I found it to be quite charming.

If you only have like 1 or 2 full days on the island, it’s not a bad idea to stay near the port in Moyogalpa for convenience. Be aware that Ometepe is deceptively big. For example, riding a scooter from Moyogalpa to the entrance to the San Ramon waterfall hike is approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes.

I suggest arriving by early afternoon. This way you’ll still have time to do some activities or get your scooter rental sorted out to be mobile as quickly as possible. If you’re not staying near the port, upon exiting the ferry you’ll have to take a tuk tuk or taxi to wherever you’re staying, which might end up being a long ride. Keep that in mind.

Things to Do

Here’s a basic list of some popular activities on the island, a few of which I did not partake in, either because they were things similar to stuff I’ve already done, not really available at the moment, or because I figured they weren’t worth my effort based on research and circumstance:

  • Hike Volcano Concepción or Maderas
  • Go kayaking
  • Rent a scooter and explore
  • Visit El Pital Cacao plantation
  • Sunset at Punta Jesus Maria
  • Hike to San Ramon Waterfall
  • Eat fresh seafood
  • Wet Wednesdays at Raindance Hostel
  • Tour an organic finca
  • Beaches
  • Reserva Natural Ojo de Agua

Things I Did

SCOOTER RENTAL

I spent a lot of time on a scooter because I was staying near the port. Everything was a bit far from me. The good thing is I love motorbikes!

A rental typically costs between $14-18 per 24 hours. My first rental from my hostel, Hospedaje Soma, costed $18 with no cash deposit required. My second rental was from a vendor in Moyogalpa that my friend and I shared, costing $14 with a $55 cash deposit that I personally opposed. I heard from someone that he was asked to provide a $100 deposit from a different place, which is absolutely insane!

Taking a scooter around the island was a blast for me. It’s clearly the best method of transportation to save time, to explore, and to feel liberation. The ride is an enjoyable way to view the beautiful scenery, including volcanoes in the distance and the waters of Lake Nicaragua. There are 4×4 and bicycle rentals available as well.

KAYAKING

Near Merida, a couple places offer kayak rentals and tours. I suggest renting a kayak independently and exploring Rio Istlián yourself at your own pace. Two or three hours on the water is plenty of time. It’s a pleasant wandering experience, and depending on your adventurous nature, you can transition to the small inlets that branch off from the main river. Caiman sightings are supposedly fairly common. I wasn’t lucky enough to spot any, but I did see quite a few cool birds.

My trip started in the Lake Nicaragua and progressed into River Istlián. I went on the journey alone, but I think it would have been even better to share the kayak with a partner. There’s less physical labor with two people operating the kayak, plus it’s nice having a partner to overcome the potential fear of getting lost.

I really enjoyed the peace and quiet of this activity. The water was eerily calm in a good way, and easy to navigate.

SAN RAMON WATERFALL HIKE

San Ramon Waterfall was probably the highlight of my trip to Ometepe. It was much taller and stronger than I had anticipated. Luckily when I arrived after the 3 km hike, I had the place to myself for about 20 minutes! Best case scenario!

I arrived at the entrance by scooter, paid a small entrance fee, and then rode up the bumpy path for a few minutes and parked. If I had kept riding, eventually I would have reached an official parking section for all motorbikes as the trail changes to “walking only”. Some people like myself opted to park a bit earlier before reaching that point because the way back downhill could have been quite slippery and difficult to manage.

The rest of the walking trail was well maintained and a decent workout, with the last quarter being pretty steep. It ended up being a healthy challenge before reaching the chilly waters of San Ramon. The satisfaction I felt from standing under the waterfall was without any distraction.

SUNSET AT PUNTA JESUS MARIA

This small volcano sand beach is a popular location to watch the Sun go down. Feel free to get some fresh coconut juice from one of the vendors while your at it! I came here 2 nights in a row. If the water is calm enough, you can go for a swim.

SEAFOOD

Lake Nicaragua hosts diverse fish, famously including saltwater species like Bull Sharks and Tarpon, alongside numerous native freshwater fish like various Cichlids and Machaca. It’s a unique ecosystem where marine life interacts with freshwater species, offering rich fishing opportunities. You can find plenty of restaurants that serve fresh fish a variety of ways. Before you order, ask if the fish is local to make sure you’re getting something freshly caught.

Fyi

During the time I visited Ometepe in late December, there weren’t many beaches to go to. From what I was told it was because the rainy season had just ended and most of the sand was under water.

I decided to skip the volcano hikes because I was satisfied with my waterfall hike. In addition, I read that Concepción was a strenuous mission with obstructed views. I personally hate difficult hikes with unimpressive viewpoints blocked by clouds. During my entire time on the island there were clouds hovering over the volcano. I never saw the top.

I hope you enjoyed the guide!

THANKS FOR READING!