Following a hectic 6 weeks in Rio de Janeiro, I made my way to Bahia to volunteer for about 4 weeks. I ended up in Serra Grande, a place that nobody I knew had ever been. My goal was to recenter myself while barely spending any money. Mission accomplished!
This tiny beach town is located about 30 km south of Itacaré, housing a population of about 6,000 people. Over the past 5 years it has doubled in size, with tourism and cacao agriculture driving it’s growth. It serves as a base of unwinding for solo travelers through beaches and alternative medicine.
Getting here is pretty straight forward from the south or north. You just have to reach Itacaré or Ilheus, from which you can make your way to Serra Grande by bus. I arrived all the way from Rio de Janeiro, which took like 2 days.
WHAT TO DO & WHERE TO GO
Serra Grande is super chill and pretty isolated, so I’m gonna list the stuff that’s within reasonable walking distance. Before we get to that point, I’d like to personally recommend Guava Hostel for your accommodation. It’s an affordable option with really good vibes, perfect for your stay.
Without further ado, let’s get started!
Prainha
This is the closest beach you’ll visit, and it’s a secluded paradise. From the town square it’s about a 15-20 minute walk that eventually takes you downhill to the beach, which kind of like a enclosed cove barricades by huge rocks that waves smash into. The water is shallow but if you go out far enough you can have fun with some waves and chill in the water. There is also a nice grassy area to relax.
Gelato
There are 2 excellent gelaterias to go to, Gelart and Gelado da Praia. Gelart has a wide selection of tasty artisanal flavors and is very cheap. My personal favorites were doce de leite and coco c/ abacaxi.
Gelado da Praia is more of an exclusive small batch kind of ice cream shop with specialized flavors, and more expensive. The quality of the ingredients used are excellent and very responsibly sourced.
Cachoeira de Tijuipe
I loved this place. The water was the perfect temperature, the current wasn’t too strong, the scenery was calming, and you can even kayak on the other side of the waterfall! Truly an impressive place.
Getting here is simple. You catch the bus from the town square, which costs R$10 (brazilian Reals), and tell the driver that you’re going to Cachoeira de Tijuipe. The entrance fee to the waterfall is R$30. To return back to Serra Grande, you wait for the same bus or hitch hike (which is pretty common).
Stargazing at Praia Sargi + Pompilho
To start, I just want to say that I chose these 2 beaches specifically because they’re very easily accessible. All of the other beaches in the area require some type of hike down to the beach and back up when you’re finished. This would not be ideal and pretty at night in pitch black darkness.
PRAIA SARGI
I had no idea how visible the stars were going to be here! Unfortunately I don’t have a good enough camera to show what it was like, but it was definitely worth the trip. I was at the beach about an hour after sunset and tons of stars were already shining bright. The Milky Way galaxy was even somewhat visible. I imagine during a new moon in the middle of the night, it would be an even more incredible sight. Praia Sargi is an hour walk or 10 minute drive from Serra Grande. There’s free parking as well. If you’re into hitch hiking, it’s quite common in this part of Brazil.
PRAIA DO POMPILHO (optional due to inconvenience)
Praia do Pompilho is also a place that I believe would be an amazing spot to view the stars. The beach is very long and the southern tip of it is empty, even better it’s much closer to Serra Grande. This is where you’ll be going. It’s surrounded completely by forest so there’s zero light pollution. It’s about a 60-70 minute walk..
I went here during the day and literally had the entire beach to myself. It was completely abandoned. The trail is like a 5-10 minute walk, closer to 5 minutes. Feel free to arrive before it gets dark and stay for a while to watch the stars come out. On the way back though, it will obviously be extremely dark. Most of the walk back will have absolutely no street lights either.
Sarau Serra Viva
Sarau Serra Viva is a market & fest that takes place on the 2nd Saturday of every month, showcasing a lot of delicious foods (mostly sweets) and arts & crafts, accompanied by a few live performances from artists and musicians. The vibe is wholesome and really exemplifies what Serra Grande is like. It’s a great time!
Wellness Activities
There are many meetups and services dedicated to physical and mental wellness. Enjoy some rehabilitation. Flyers for services and meetups like the ones you see below are posted at the main square at the Rota bus stop. They’re are also posted in stores and restaurants.
Fruterias & Emporio
There are couple great fruterias to take advantage of fresh fruits and vegetables. Also, stop by Emporio, the town’s small health food store with a variety of items, among an impressive selection of cacao delicacies, bulk nuts and fruits, pastries, bath and body products, teas, refrigerated foods, etc.
