It’s no secret that Rio de Janeiro is one of the most fun cities in the world to party and enjoy beautiful beaches. Besides the obvious, it’s actually a great urban area for hiking. Within its concrete jungle and just outside of it are plenty of trails up the Pedras (massive rock formations), leading to fantastic viewpoints of the city and neighboring ocean.
These trails are a blessing for visitors that desire a break from the chaotic pace of the noisy city, existing as a suitable replacement, some much needed nature.
Out of the collection of treks within Rio, I’ve listed 2 of my favorites that can be done in a reasonably short period of time during your stay, both of which are fairly easily accessible.
Morro Dois Irmãos (sunrise hike)
For the sunrise hike at Dois Irmãos, I prepared for a 5:45 AM sunrise. An Uber picked me up from my hostel in the neighborhood of Gloria at 3:10 AM, heading towards Vidigal. After about a 25-30 minute car ride, I arrived to Praça do Vidigal, the location where everyone has to catch a mandatory mototaxi (it costs 10 Brazilian Reals) in order to reach the entry point to the Dois Irmãos trail. Wherever you’re coming from, you have to go to Praça do Vidigal first and take a mototaxi from there.
Upon arriving to Vidigal, I joined a flock of people preparing to go to Dois Irmãos. From there, we waited in line for a little while for our mototaxis, who then raced like Mario Kart maniacs up the favela streets with us on the back of their bikes – an adrenaline rush to say the least.
After a rapid commute to the trailhead and having already paid the drivers, I paid another 10 Reals entrance fee to start the hike, proceeding in the dark. The trail was full of solo visitors and a couple tour groups, with some people equipped with headlamps to help lead the way. Feel free to bring your own headlamp if you have one.
The moderate trek on the well-maintained trail takes about 30-60 minutes depending on your speed. Along the way up, there are a few rest stops to view the Rocinha favela, lit up by bright street lights. Upon reaching the summit, you’re greeted by amazing 360 views of Rio and the beautiful Atlantic Ocean as the sky starts to change color, awaiting the rising sun.
My advice is to get to the trailhead and start the hike about 60-90 minutes before the scheduled sunrise.
The summit, which is kind of broken down in 2 sections, is full of people taking photos and finding places to sit. Don’t worry about it though, there’s room for everyone.
On the way back down, now in the daylight, you can appreciate the actual forest trail itself, plus the viewpoints of Rocinha and all of its color no longer hidden by darkness. All in all, Dois Irmãos is 100% worth a visit!
Trilha da Pedra Bonita
Pedra Bonita, like Dois Irmãos, is a moderate hike. It’s located roughly in the same area, and is easily accessible by Uber or taxi. Although not quite as long as it’s counterpart, the trail might actually be steeper and more difficult. I was pretty sick when I did it so maybe I’m exaggerating, but either way I sweated like crazy having done the hike around mid-day.
The top of Pedra Bonita provides impressive views of the sea with Barra da Tijuca one side, and Rocinha and Praia da Gavea on the other. It’s a peaceful place to relax and take in the beautiful scenery for a while. There were several people circling around the summit, hang-gliding and parachuting, which added a cool dynamic to the views.
Not remotely as crowded as the sunrise hike at Dois Irmaos, I would suggest spending as much time as you can up there. I even took a nap for an hour! The area is spacious, comfortable and just so peaceful. Listening to silence was very refreshing.
Although I loved the views, my most memorable experience here was seeing a bunch of monkeys during my descent, a total of about 5, including a mother and small baby on her back. After arriving to the bottom of the trail, I had a bite to eat at the restaurant. There I saw the monkeys again, this time feasting from a massive jackfruit on a jackfruit tree. There were actually quite a few Jackfruit trees around, which I assume are a popular food source for the animals.
I enjoyed a tasty meal while watching the curious animals bounce from tree to tree. It was a perfect end to the activity.
BTW – Cell phone service is pretty bad here, but the restaurant has WIFI. Your best option to order an Uber is from there for when you want to leave.
Other Views
There are plenty other viewpoints around the city from the beaches, favelas, and Pedras. Do some exploring and see what you can find!
