Carnival in Rio De Janeiro (a smart guide)

Carnaval is a dream destination for adventurous travelers from all around the world. I’ve put together an informative overview that won’t take too much of your time. We’ll be discussing the following:

  • Accomodation
  • Transportation
  • Bairros (neighborhoods)
  • Blocos & Sambadrome
  • Extra info

LET’S GET RIGHT INTO IT!

Accomodation

To make your trip worthwhile, my recommendation is to book the most social hostels possible in accordance with your budget and preferences.

Carnaval is a lively atmosphere ideal for groups of people to join in together, so having a home base that shares the same vibe is the best starting point. Think active social space, music, pool, alcohol, etc.

I stayed at Hostel Sunrise (formerly Rio World Connection), which had the perfect atmosphere. It’s centrally located, in walking distance to many places and near the metro for easy access to the rest of the city. The free breakfast is good and the views from the balcony top it off!

Pura Vida Hostel and Discovery hostel are also great options, and if you just want to party like crazy, Books hostel is the most popular destination for that, catering to a primarily young crowd.

For digital nomads, I highly suggest Socialtel (formerly Selina Lapa). It has more of a hotel vibe but it’s a very well run facility with good security. My 2nd choice would be Mango Tree Hostel in Ipanema.

Do your research before booking anything, and decide if being next to the beach is a priority for you. Just be sure to book well in advance.

SIDE NOTE: Many hostels don’t allow visitors from outside. The stringency varies but just be aware of such policies.

TIP: Some neighborhoods in Rio have extremely hilly, inclined roads. Some places are located way up the hills. Consider it in terms of going to and from your hostel in the blazing heat of Summer in Rio.

Transportation

The 2 best modes of transport during Carnaval are the metro (subway), and moto taxis (via Uber). If you need a car for groups, Uber is just fine as well. Below are a couple maps that you can use them as visuals.

METRO

The Metro in Rio is fast, affordable, and avoids traffic. It’s very clean and I felt safe as a rider. Check out this guide for some valuable information regarding operating hours and pricing options .https://rioandlearn.com/rio-de-janeiro-metro/

For reference, the distance between Pura Vida Hostel and Hostel Sunrise is about 11 km. If you coordinate it with the city map, it’s Copacabana/Ipanema to Gloria, and using the metro stop map it’s General Osario to Gloria. The ride between both stops just 20-25 minutes. Pretty efficient.

MOTO TAXIS

Moto taxis are cheap, bypass traffic jams, and are available 24 hours. I normally only took them over shorter distances like 5 km or less, but I had friends who routinely took them for several kilometers, mostly women who tended to be shorter and lighter than men. For me, long distance rides were physically uncomfortable.

TIP: It’s difficult to catch Ubers in and around major blocos. It’s best to book rides in an easily accessible avenue away from heavy traffic. Sometimes streets are closed down.

Bairros

During Carnaval, there will be events going on all over the city, and you’re going to want to explore. For the purpose of this quick guide, the places I’ve listed below will be the most active and easy to commute. I group neighborhoods together by proximity.

A. Lapa, Santa Teresa, Gloria

ARCOS DA LAPA
SANTA TERESA TRAM

Gloria and Lapa are right next to each other and very walkable. You’ll find the famous Escadaria Selaron, many clubs/bars, the Lapa Arches (tons of street food here at night if you want a cheap bite to eat), and other nearby attractions. There is a pretty large drug market in Lapa so it’s a bit gritty in certain spots, but still generally safe. Nearby Santa Teresa is a charming residential neighborhood with inclined streets, good restaurants, and nice views. Riding the Santa Teresa tram is popular activity. Some of my favorite Blocos took place there. It’s a good Airbnb location as well. Walk out of your front door and there’s a party right there on some days!

SIDE NOTE: The tram actually rides atop the arches in Lapa at one point.

TIP: Pedra Do Sal is an extremely popular outdoor Samba party in Centro that takes place every Monday and Friday. I must say though, it gets insanely crowded on Mondays and in my personal opinion, Fridays are better. More info here https://freewalkertours.com/pedra-do-sal-the-place-where-the-samba-was-born/

B. Botafogo, Flamengo

Botafogo is a safe and trendy neighborhood with good restaurants and nightlife, just not as grand as Lapa. It’s more intimate and residential. Nonetheless, It’s a hot spot for locals and tourists alike. Flamengo is a beautiful place for walking and cycling. It’s lush, pleasant, and home to see a nice relaxed beach with gorgeous views. The ocean waves tend to be more calm as well in comparison to Copacabana and Ipanema.

TIP: Check out Mundo Lingo at Bar Bukowski in Botafogo, which takes place every Thursday. It’s a very popular language exchange https://mundolingo.org/city/Rio-de-Janeiro

C. Copacabana, Leme, Ipanema

PRAIA DA VERMELHA

This is the most touristic part of Rio, full of life, with a feel of luxury. Copacabana is the most animated, Ipanema is kind of similar, and Leme has more of a secluded feel – close to the action but a nice sense of tranquility.

The main attractions are Sugarloaf Mountain and Pedra Do Aproador (the most emblematic sunset spot in Rio), and the beaches. The best way to commute in this area is by bicycle. It’s fun cruising next to the beach in the bike lanes. The beaches are super long and you’d be surprised to long it takes to go from Leme Beach to the end of Ipanema Beach and beyond to Leblon.

My favorite beach in the area, pictured is Praia Da Vermelha, next Sugarloaf Mountain. It’s a gorgeous place to chill.

TIP: Sugarloaf Mountain (Pao de Azucar) hosts sunset DJ sets at Parque Bondhino on weekends. More info on their website https://www.bondinho.com.br/en

Blocos & Sambadrome

Before proceeding, follow these Instagram pages for lists, times, updates, and footage:

@blocosrj.oficial @blocos_cariocas @aboutcarnival

BLOCOS

Finally, what we all come for, the infamous street parties that take place all over the city during Carnival – Blocos

Some are small, some are massive and extremely crowded, most have live music and samba, some are actually parades, some have various street performers, and some move with live bands leading the way, while others are stationary, large gatherings in an open space like a plaza or park. Wherever you go, it’s a bunch of people celebrating.

INSIGHT: The festivities actually start even a week or 2 leading up to the official dates of Carnival, cleverly named Pre-Carnival. I think it’s nice to experience this first if you have the time. It’s a nice warm-up with less tourists.

SANTA TERESA

10 PIECES OF INFO AND ADVICE

1. Decorate yourself – glitter, costumes, crazy sunglasses, facepaint, hair dye, wear bright colors, whatever you’re comfortable with. You can even bring some stuff to put on other people. Have fun with it.

2. Bring water. More than enough. You’ll be sharing it with friends.

3. Try different Caipirinhas – Among the fan favorites are Maracuya (passion fruit) and Limao (lime). I’ve even had a watermelon (melancia) Caipirinha, delicious but hard to find. Just know they are loaded with alcohol and sugar. Even if you say just a little sugar, they’ll still add 2 large scoops. Feel free to say no sugar if you want.

4. Blocos usually last from like 2 to 4 hours and many of them tend to move. It’s best to arrive when they’re just starting or soon after, so you don’t have to chase them after they’ve left.

5. Try to go out in a group of at least 4 people.

6. Almost every vender accepts card payments. You almost don’t need cash. However, some of the vendors have the cheap small card readers that don’t work well, and on some occasions they’ll have to find a neighboring vendor who has a better machine to charge your card. If you want to avoid such issues bring a little bit of cash (small bills) or just try to spot the vendors who have the big readers. You’ll know what I’m talking about when you see them.

7. Keep all important belongings in a fanny pack in front of you, and covered by clothing if possible. Theft is an issue during Carnival. Many Brazilians don’t even bring their phones to blocos. Don’t be the gringo getting your phone snatched taking a bunch of photos in crowds. I’m not saying don’t take pictures, just be cautious.

8. The sun is no joke in Rio. Use sunscreen, or If you’re the type that doesn’t use it, like me, maybe wear a hat or don’t stay shirtless for too long. Use your best judgement.

9. Be free, but also respectful, Don’t be a dick like you’ve never been outside before.

10. Kissing – I’m sure you’ve heard about it. You lock eyes with someone for a second or 2, and then make out. Maybe you’ll talk or exchange numbers, maybe you won’t say anything to each other and you walk away. It’s up to you. I think the mystique in itself is blown out of proportion like Carnival is some outdoor orgy. It happens but It’s really not THAT rampant.

SAMBADROME

This is the biggest event of Carnival and it’s recommended to book tickets far in advance. Sambadrome is an outdoor stadium and parade, which hosts a competition of Rio’s most famous Samba schools.

It’s a spectacle to say the least. The tickets are quite expensive, but there is a very affordable option as well. You can watch the rehearsals free of charge, and you won’t be disappointed.

The stadium is located outside of the most touristic areas, but is easily accessible by metro. It’s huge deal and a must see in my opinion. Don’t miss out!

Here’s a link for more information – https://rioandlearn.com/sambadrome

SAMBADROME REHEARSAL

Extra Tips & Info

  • Try to learn some Portuguese before you go. It’s helpful. I had just started learning a couple months before I arrived to Rio and already spoke more Portuguese than 95% of the tourists visiting. Not many Brazilians speak English either.
  • Coffee shops for digital nomads are few and far between. Don’t rely on it.
  • Go to a farmers market. Lots of fresh tropical fruits and juices.
  • Rio is full of amazing viewpoints. Take advantage.
  • Go to a local restaurant in Santa Teresa and eat the Feijoada
  • See multiple sunsets
  • Enjoy some organic Acai
  • A lot of hostels have filtered water. You’ll save some money on that.
  • For you smokers, the rolling tobacco is decent quality and cheap
THANKS FOR READING!