During my travels in Brazil there were a couple of destinations I just had to see in person. Lençóis Maranhenses National Park was one of them. This fantasyland appears to be a desert, encompassing 155,000 hectares of pristine sand dunes. However, it is actually a basin containing lush oases interspersed with crystal-clear lagoons formed by approximately 1,200 mm of annual rainfall, most of which occurs between January and May. Interestingly, the lagoons cannot drain due to a layer of impermeable rock beneath the sandy surface. Instead, the water evaporates during the dry season.
Fun fact: Lençois Maranhenses was used as the landscape for the planet of Vormir in the films Avengers: Infinity War and Avengers: End Game.
How/When to Visit
There are essentially 3 base towns from which you can visit the park:
- Barreirinhas
- Santo Amaro
- Atins (3-5 day trek to Santo Amaro)
Most visitors will fly to São Luís, Maranhão, the nearest major city to Lençóis Maranhenses. From there you will travel to one of the three towns. As for the best time to go, June and July are probably your best options. The rainy season typically ends at the end of May, and in June the lagoons are at their fullest, which is ideal.
I would say the perfect time to visit is the second or third week of June. I went the 1st week. The weather was great, but that weekend was packed because of a national holiday called Corpus Christi, which happens on June 4th.
Getting to the Towns (quick rundown)
BARREIRINHAS
You can reach Barreirinhas by bus from the central bus station in São Luís. I took the Guanabara bus; the trip took about five hours.
SANTO AMARO
Santo Amaro is bit more tricky. It’s primarily accessible by transfer (air-conditioned van). Transfers are available from São Luis and Barreirinhas from a variety of agencies or websites like this one here (São Luis) and here (Barreirinhas).
ATINS
Atins is easily reached from Barreirinhas by ferry, which takes about 90 minutes and costs R$60. It departs daily at 12:30 p.m from in front of Restaurante O Bambu on Avenida Beira Rio.
Barreirinhas
The most popular way to visit Lençóis Maranhenses is via day trips from Barreirinhas, the most established town with the best infrastructure and the widest selection of tour agencies. This is what I did, and have a couple of tips that should help.
For starters, there are a ton of tour providers that are simply third-party booking agencies. Most of them offer nearly identical group tours at very similar prices. Don’t stress too much about which agency to use. What’s more important is which tours you choose. Obviously, don’t book with some three-star agency on Google, but don’t bend over backward trying to find the absolute best service.
WHAT TOURS NOT TO TAKE
Do not take the full-day Lagoa Azul + Lagoa Bonita tour. It’s the most crowded tour available, combining a visit to Lagoa Azul during the day with a sunset visit to Lagoa Bonita.
These two circuits are also offered separately as half-day tours: Lagoa Azul during the day and Lagoa Bonita at sunset. I wouldn’t recommend either of those at those times, but at the very least, don’t do both in the same tour.
Instead, find an agency that offers a Lagoa Azul sunset tour specifically. It will be much less crowded than Lagoa Bonita at that time.
Lagoa Bonita and the surrounding area showcase some truly massive dunes that are incredibly striking. They really put the immensity of the park into perspective. If you can find a way to visit during off-hours, I highly recommend it. Not to mention, the dunes sit right next to a forest, separated by what is quite literally a line in the sand at their crest. During sunset, however, the crowds are so overwhelming that, in my opinion, it’s just not worth it.
Quick tip: Try your best to visit these places on a sunny day. The sunlight visually makes a world of a difference
VISITING LAGOA AZUL
Overall I think the Lagoa Azul circuit is the best attraction near Barreirinhas, particularly due to the color of the water and the pristine dunes. The first time seeing something like this gives off a special feeling. Photos just don’t do it enough justice. It begins with a bumpy 40 minute ride through the park, but the destination is worthy of the slight discomfort.
If you value solitude in nature and peaceful silence surrounded by exceptional beauty, then take my advice. When you arrive at Lagoa Azul, you’ll be greeted by an otherworldly scene of gorgeous lagoons and picturesque dunes right from the start. You’ll be tempted to take photos and jump into the water immediately, just like most people. Skip that part.
Immediately start walking straight ahead, past the first couple of dunes and lagoons, and keep a good pace. Feel free to walk for 20–40 minutes, admiring the alien landscape as silence gradually fills the air. If you walk far enough, you’ll have the entire place almost completely to yourself. The overwhelming sense of peace is magical.
The shimmering water is crystal clear, with a bluish emerald hue. The temperature is perfect. Stand or swim, scream or stay quiet. The world is yours in that moment.
The tour you book will most likely end around 5:00 or 5:30 p.m. if you visit in June, like I did. Take your time in the solitary wilderness, then head back as the sun begins to set.
QUADRICICLOS TOUR
The Quadriciclos (4×4) tour is an adventurous excursion that anyone with a thrill-seeking mindset should consider. Most tours travel by 4×4 one way and return to Barreirinhas by boat.
What to wear:
- Sunglasses
- A UPF long-sleeve shirt (for sun protection)
- A hat and/or sunscreen
I did the tour without a UV-protective shirt, and I wish I had worn one. I was absolutely cooked afterward. The blazing sun drained all my energy. I applied sunscreen thoroughly, but the shirt probably would have saved me from the headache I ended up with.
Most operators charge around R$550–650 for the 4×4 vehicle, which has space for two people. If you split the cost with someone, that’s about R$275–325 per person. I found an agency that offered the tour for R$500, but they were always fully booked.
The tour is an adrenaline rush through the smaller sand dunes and lagoons in the Atins area of the park, followed by a drive along the beach past a string of wind turbines. The whole experience begins with a driving lesson so you’re properly prepared before heading out.
It’s a great value if you share the 4×4 with someone. Going by yourself is still worth it, but you can’t beat splitting the cost. I was driving solo, so it was nearly impossible to take action shots while flying up and down the dunes.
STARGAZING TOUR
This is almost exclusively offered as a private tour by a few different operators. If you have a group, do it. I’ve heard it’s fantastic. Obviously, monitor the weather and try to go on a night with clear skies during or around the new moon. Imagine being in the middle of Lençóis Maranhenses, gazing at the night sky. Make it happen.
SOBREVOO TOUR
An opportunity to take a scenic flight over Lençóis Maranhenses in a small aircraft. The general consensus cost for a scenic flight is between R$870-950 per person for a standard 30-minute flight, while hour-long flights start at roughly R$1,690.
SANTO AMARO TOUR
From Barreirinhas, there is a tour that visits a few lagoons near Santo Amaro, but it doesn’t take you to the best ones. Instead, it visits the lagoons closest to Barreirinhas, and the circuit is usually more crowded. Not to mention, the drive there and back takes away from your time in the park. You’re better off going to Santo Amaro yourself first.
SUMMARY
There are other tours offered from Barreirinhas, but those that I’ve listed here, aside from the Santo Amaro tour, offer the more unique and interesting experiences.
SANTO AMARO
Santo Amaro has much less infrastructure than Barreirinhas. It is often recommended to book accommodation in advance. The great thing about the lagoons here is that they are less crowded and, in some cases, deeper. I personally have not visited any of the attractions near Santo Amaro, but I have done enough research to provide you with a useful list and summary of the area.
Here are most of the lagoons/circuits to look out for:
- Betania
- Emendadas
- Punta Verde
- America
- Passeio Nocturno (night tour / stars)
- Rancharia
- Andorinhas
- Espigão
EMENDADAS
From what I’ve researched, Emendadas is unique because it features one enormous lagoon. Considered by many travelers to be the best tour in Lençóis Maranhenses, the Lagoas Emendadas Circuit is one of the few options for exploring the park on foot. The hike takes approximately four hours in total, including stops for swimming in the lagoons. The tour begins in the afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day, allowing you to finish by watching the sunset among the park’s dunes.
PASSEIO NOCTURNO / STARGAZING
Some operators based in Santo Amaro also appear to offer shared night tours rather than exclusively private ones, so you can join one just like any other regular tour. If you get the chance to do this, take advantage of it.
BETANIA
This is the most traditional full-day tour in Santo Amaro. If you have to choose only one activity in the area, this is an excellent option. During the tour, Betânia is not the only place visited. Generally, the itinerary includes stops for swimming in at least three crystal-clear lagoons, lunch in the community of Betânia, and sunset from the top of a dune. The scenery is said to be breathtaking, with deep lagoons and beautiful dunes.
OTHER TOURS
Each lagoon circuit offers something a little different, but I think the general theme is that they are less touristy than most of the tours offered in Barreirinhas. Andorinhas is the most popular circuit because of its proximity to Santo Amaro, just 20 minutes away. ATV (quad bike) excursions are also available.
Multi-Day Treks from Barreirinhas & Atins
Multi-day treks are available for those looking for a more intimate exploration of Lençóis Maranhenses. Most are three-day excursions that depart from Barreirinhas and cost around R$2,500 (approximately USD$425-450), give or take. I searched through various tour operators, and this was the general price range I found.
It is also possible to complete the trek without a guide. I’ll get to that in a second.
Here’s a quick rundown of the itinerary:
Day 1 – Approximately 6 km of hiking. Start at the beginning of the Rio Negro Trail, hike to the Baixa Grande Oasis, and spend the night at a local family’s house in the community.
Day 2 – Approximately 12 km of hiking. Hike from Baixa Grande to Queimada dos Britos and spend the night at a pousada.
Day 3 – Approximately 14 km of hiking. Hike from Queimada dos Britos to a beautiful lagoon near Santo Amaro. The final destination varies somewhat between tour operators. I’ve seen both Lagoa do Junco and Lagoa do Cajueiro listed.
Along the way, you’ll witness spectacular sunrises and sunsets, stop to swim in several lagoons, and share meals with local families. It’s a fully immersive experience.
DOING IT WITHOUT A GUIDE
I met a group of three people who completed this trek—or at least a good portion of it—without a guide.
To do it yourself, you first need to get to Atins, which is the closest town to the start of the trail. The trailhead is about a two-hour ride from town in an off-road vehicle. You’ll need to hire one of the pickup truck drivers, which costs around R$600–700. Split between a group, it’s not too bad.
You’ll most likely have luggage with you, so your driver will also need to transport it to Santo Amaro. I’m not sure how much that costs, but that’s basically how it works.
As for the trek itself, the idea is to get directions from the locals along the way. The first day is the easiest. Once you arrive in Baixa Grande, ask the locals how to get to Queimada dos Britos, and continue doing the same at each stop. It can definitely be done, and it appears to be much cheaper than paying for a guided tour.
Since you wouldn’t be on a fixed schedule, you could even spend a couple of extra nights in the communities inside the national park. It seems like a fantastic option for the off-the-beaten-path traveler.
Well, at least now you know it’s an option. If you’re interested in learning more, ask around and see what information you can find.
Advice & Conclusion
Based on what I know now after experiencing Lençóis Maranhenses firsthand, I would do one of two things:
- Spend three to four days between Barreirinhas and Santo Amaro, depending on your budget. Book your tours at least a couple of days in advance to make sure everything is arranged, and book your transportation between towns ahead of time as well.
- Do the multi-day trek and experience a side of the park that most people never get to see.
Lençóis Maranhenses is one of the most unique places on Earth. I hope this guide was helpful and saves you some trouble when planning your trip. I’m glad I could help. Safe travels!
